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Essential Pepin: More Than 700 All-Time Favorites from My Life in Food

Eggplant Cushions

Serves 4
 
Thick slices of eggplant are lightly coated with oil on both sides, then baked in one layer on a baking sheet until soft. Cooked this way, the slices absorb only about a quarter of the oil they would if fried in a skillet. Then cubes of leftover bread are processed with garlic, herbs, and olive oil in a food processor, the crumbled mixture is piled atop the eggplant slices, and they are broiled until the eggplant is hot and the topping nicely browned. The slices can be baked ahead but should be finished under the broiler at the last minute. This dish makes a good first course or a pleasing accompaniment to meat or fish.
 
       2       eggplants, about 3–4 inches in diameter (about 1 3/4 pounds)
1 1/2        tablespoons canola oil
   3/4         teaspoon salt
      1         cup 1-inch pieces leftover bread, preferably from a baguette
   1/4         cup chopped mixed fresh chives and parsley
      1         garlic clove, crushed
      2         teaspoons olive oil
 
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. 
Trim the eggplants, peel them, and cut them crosswise into thick slices, about 1 1/4 inches thick. (You should have about 8 slices total.) 
 
Line a large baking sheet with a nonstick baking mat or parchment paper and coat with the oil. Press the eggplant slices into the oil and sprinkle them with half the salt. Turn the slices over, arranging them in one layer, and sprinkle with the remaining salt. Bake for 30 minutes, or until the eggplant flesh is very soft.
 
Meanwhile, put the bread cubes, herbs, and garlic in a food processor and process for about 15 seconds, until the bread is coarsely crumbled. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and toss lightly with the olive oil.
 
When the eggplant slices are cooked, spoon the crumbs on top of them. (The eggplant can be prepared to this point several hours in advance.)
 
Preheat the broiler. Position the pan of eggplant so that the crumb mixture is 6 to 8 inches from the heat and broil for 5 to 6 minutes, until the topping is nicely browned. Serve.
 
(courtesy of Jaques Pepin)

Peking-Style Chicken

Serves 4
 
Prepared in the style of Peking duck, the chicken is first blanched in boiling water to eliminate some of the fat and tighten the skin. This step helps the skin crisp as it cooks, so the bird becomes beautifully brown when it is roasted with a simple glaze of soy, honey, Tabasco, and vinegar.
 
 
      1       chicken (about 4 pounds)
1 1/2       teaspoons honey
      2       tablespoons dark soy sauce
      1       teaspoon Tabasco sauce
      2       tablespoons balsamic vinegar
    12       ounces small button mushrooms, cleaned
   1/2       cup water
 
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Bring 10 cups water to a boil in a large pot.
Meanwhile, remove the wishbone from the chicken. Fold the wings of the chicken under its back and truss it with kitchen twine to help maintain the bird’s compact shape.
 
Lower the chicken breast side down into the boiling water. Return the water to a boil over high heat (this will take about 3 minutes). As soon as the water is boiling, reduce the heat to low and simmer the chicken gently for 2 minutes. Drain and place the chicken breast side up on a rack in a roasting pan.
 
Mix the honey, soy sauce, Tabasco, and vinegar together in a small bowl. Brush the chicken on all sides with some of the mixture. Roast breast side up for about 30 minutes. Arrange the mushrooms in one layer under the rack in the pan and add the water. 
 
Brush the chicken with the remaining honey mixture and roast for 15 minutes longer.
 
Transfer the chicken to a platter. Pour the accumulated juices and the mushrooms into a saucepan. Let stand for 2 to 3 minutes, then spoon off as much fat from the surface as possible, and reheat if necessary.
Cut the chicken into pieces and serve with the juices and mushrooms.
 
 
HOW TO REMOVE THE WISHBONE FROM CHICKEN AND OTHER BIRDS
 
The wishbone is often removed from chicken, duck, and other birds to make carving easier. To remove the wishbone, place the bird on its back and lift the skin at the neck to expose the flesh. Slide the point of a paring knife along either side of the wishbone, cutting into the flesh (about _ inch deep for a chicken). Then insert your thumb and index finger on either side of the wishbone and pry it out.
 
HOW TO TRUSS A CHICKEN
 
Trussing a stuffed bird helps keep the stuffing in. Trussing also helps a bird hold its shape, whether it is stuffed or not, so it cooks evenly and looks better on the serving platter. Nevertheless, trussing is usually optional.
To truss a chicken (or other bird), use fairly thick cotton kitchen twine, so it doesn’t cut your fingers. Slide a length of twine under the tail and around the tips of the drumsticks, then cross the twine above the chicken and slide both ends of the twine under the tips of the drumsticks to create a figure 8. Hold the ends of the twine together, which will close the tail opening. Pull the ends of twine around the sides of the bird until they join at the neck end, next to the wings, and tighten the twine, securing it behind the wings or behind the stump of the neck; tie a double knot so the twine doesn’t slide off. Remove the twine before serving.
 
(courtesy of Jaques Pepin)