As the weather turns brisk and fall gives way to winter, we begin thinking about warm coats, cozy quilts, and cups of cocoa. One of the most luxurious winter fabrics, velvet, is perfect for this time of year. Although these days velvet is less popular than it once was, at one time it was a standard cold-weather commodity.
Velvet is a pile fabric woven with an extra set of yarns that can be left as loops (uncut) or cut to create a soft pile on the surface. Prior to the 1920s, velvet was made of silk, wool, or cotton. A popular fabric throughout the 19th century, velvet was used for everything from quilt squares to shoes. During the last quarter of the 19th century, one of its most popular uses was in crazy quilts (for more on crazy quilts see our March 2011 article Crazy for Flower Quilts). Strips of velvet cut from new bolts of cloth or from scraps of old dresses, capes, and coats, often show up in these striking quilts.
Velvet was also used as both accent and main fabrics for garments. Dressmakers employed fine velvet ribbons for embellishment on dresses of the 1860s, and entire costumes were made of velvet well into the next century. Velvet was also used for outerwear, such as capes in the late 19th century and coats in the 20th century. Men sported velvet almost as frequently as women. Although by the second half of the 19th century men’s fashion dictated somber suits, personalization could be gained through a man’s vest. Velvet became a staple for men’s vests as it offered a variety of colors and patterns, while providing warmth and elegance.
To see some examples of velvet luxury, visit the exhibition Making Connecticut at The Connecticut Historical Society, at One Elizabeth Street, Hartford, CT 06105. The mannequins in the exhibition will be redressed for the New Year in seasonal clothing. For more information, go to www.chs.org.